Oh My Godet Dress PDF Pattern

OMG this dress can really swish!

The Oh My Godet Dress is one showstopper of a garment. With eight panels (AKA gores) creating vertical seams around the body and the addition of triangle inserts (AKA godets) to multiply the width at the hem, this dress has a lot going for it. Not only is it ultra comfortable with it’s easy flowing fit, but there are also adjustable straps, so you never have to worry about those babies going anywhere. Did someone say pockets? Obviously no ideal summer dress is complete without inseam pockets, perfect for stashing your sunnies & camera (AKA phone). Now you’re ready for the beach, my friend. Whether you’re dreaming of this dress in an opaque linen, crisp cotton poplin, or translucent voile, this pattern has you covered. Literally. There is a lining option if needed for your fabric choice. Otherwise, the facing option is the way to go. A simple invisible zipper closes you in so you have a nice fitted upper bodice that flows into the ultimate skirt for twirling. No matter what fabric this silhouette is made up in, people will be running up to you saying, “OMG where did you get that dress?” And of course, you’ll get to say, “I made it!”

More of a visual learner? Get this PDF pattern for FREE with your purchase of the Oh My Godet Dress Virtual Sewing Workshop - now through August 3rd only.

Stripe fabric is the Essex Linen from Spoonflower with a custom Izzie print, available here. White fabric is the Smooth White Handloom Cotton from Loom & Stars.

SKILLS

• French Seams
• Overlock/Zig-Zag Stitch
• Understitch
• Clean Finish Seams
• Sewing Godets
• Sewing Inseam Pockets
• Adjustable Strap Construction
• Inserting an Invisible Zipper
• Sewing a Facing or Lining

PATTERN DETAILS

• Purchase includes a digital pattern file with sizes 0-18 B-Cup size range and 14-32 D-Cup size range
• Skill level: Intermediate
• PDF pattern includes illustrated instruction document, A0 copy shop files, print at home files prepared for A4 & letter size paper, and projector files.
• Virtual Sewing Workshop available here

MATERIALS NEEDED

• Self fabric (your main fabric)
• Matching all-purpose thread to your fabric
• 1x 14” (35.6cm) Invisible Zipper - suggested length is the minimum, you can always cut it shorter later on! Teeth size #3 is recommended
• 1x Hook & Eye - size 1 is the recommended size, although any size will work!
• 5/8” (16mm) Straight Grain Fusible Interfacing Tape - tape is great, but scrap fusible interfacing will work as well!

B-Cup Only:

• 2x 1/4" (6mm) Lingerie Strap Slides & Rings - hardware used to make adjustable straps

D-Cup Only:

• 2x 3/8” (1cm) Lingerie Strap Slides & Rings - hardware used to make adjustable straps, including the slider and the O-ring

Facing View Only:

• Fusible interfacing (for your facing pieces only)

Lining View Only:

• Lining fabric (your inner layer fabric intended to make translucent fabrics opaque enough to wear)

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

The Oh My Godet Dress is designed for light to medium weight woven fabrics. Choosing a woven fabric below 7oz or 240gsm will yield the best results not only for your comfort, but also for the construction and enjoyment while sewing. This design is quite bottom-heavy, which results in the top edge being pulled down from the weight of the hem. If your fabric is too heavy, the weight of the dress may cause the facing or lining to peak out at the top edge - so choose your fabric carefully! Lighter weight fabrics are also more beginner friendly. Think airy cottons, soft linens, silky Tencel or viscose, or satiny silks. Fabrics with a relaxed drape will create a nice flowing dress while materials with a bit more stiffness will provide a more dramatic, structured silhouette. Fabric choice also plays a role in fit! If you choose a fabric with a lot of natural give, you may even wish to size down. Twill weave fabrics may cause the godets to lean towards one direction, so it may be best to avoid! Due to the nature of this design, there are lots of pattern pieces - lending itself to color and print combos! This dress can easily be made combining lots of light-to-medium weight fabrics to make your own unique masterpiece.

The Oh My Godet Dress pattern includes two finishing options for the top edge, either the facing or a full lining. For the facing option, you will use the same fabric as the rest of your dress for your facing pieces. For the lining option, you may want to use an alternative fabric for your lining pieces. The lining is meant to provide more coverage if you choose a more translucent material for your self fabric. In that case, you will want to make sure your lining fabric is opaque enough when layered with your self fabric. Keep in mind that your lining fabric should also be lightweight!

Fusible interfacing is recommended for the top edge to help maintain the shape. Use a lightweight woven fusible interfacing designed for woven fabrications. You will use strips of fusible interfacing along the top edge of your self fabric to help maintain the shape. For the facing view, you will also apply fusible interfacing to all of your facing pieces to help hold the structure of the neckline.

FIT RECOMMENDATIONS

The Oh My Godet Dress is an easeful design that fits gently around the upper part of the bust and then flows out into an A-line dress. The pattern is drafted to fit with a shaped cup bra which provides the girls with a little lift. If you plan to wear your dress with a bralette or go au naturel, then you may need to adjust the curve shape to hit lower down on the chest or potentially remove some shaping altogether. It is recommended to make a toile from the facing pieces to master the fit around your bust. Instructions for how to make a small bust adjustment are included in the pattern.

The large godet pieces add a significant amount of hem circumference all the way up to the mid-thigh. The gored pieces are shaped to gradually open up as they fall down the body, resulting in the top edge and upper bust being the most fitted part of the dress. The center front and center back seams are cut straight on the grainline, which offers a perfect opportunity to use stripes and prints. The rest of the vertical seams create the shaping and fall on a diagonal, distorting stripes and prints which creates visual interest.

The straps are constructed with slides and rings, creating adjustable length so one less thing to worry about in the fitting stage! There are inseam pockets placed at hip height. If you shorten/lengthen the pattern, you will raise/lower the pocket placement the same amount.

The facing option ends just below the bust, closer to the waist, and is more fitted than the corresponding dress panels. The upper portion of the facing pieces match the upper portion of your dress panels. The bottom portion of the facing pieces curve in slightly to hug the shaping of your bust and hold the facing in place. It is not super fitted, but falls closer to the body than the overall dress.

The lining option ends roughly 3” (7.6cm) above the bottom hem line. Just like the facing option, the lining pieces are more fitted than the dress panels. The upper bust portion of the lining pieces match the upper bust portion of your dress panels. The bottom portion of the lining pieces fall closer to the body, but are still not super fitted. The lining is meant to hang easily around the body, allowing full movement and comfort!

SIZE GUIDE

Choose your size based on your high bust & full bust measurement. The bust area is the most fitted part of the garment. If you fall across two different sizes for your high bust and full bust, size down. The finished garment measurement for the upper bust should be nearly the same as your personal high bust measurement. Compare your personal measurements to the finished garment measurements to determine your desired amount of ease. See additional fit recommendations and pattern adjustments within the instructions.

TECHNICAL SKETCH