The Dart Side Jeans PDF Pattern

Come to The Dart Side, we have topstitching.

Whether you choose the full-length version with its puddle-worthy pleated hem, or go rogue with a pair of jorts, these jeans use the force of clever construction and cosmic cool. The back yoke? Split into two pieces and topstitched to perfection—it’s like a galaxy map for your backside. The waistband? Not one, not two, but four curved pieces working in harmony for the perfect sit-and-stay fit. And let’s talk about that back dart: cutting across oversized pockets from the side seam like a stealthy little laser beam, it’s subtle but powerful (and flatters like a Jedi mind trick). But the true magic happens at the hem. That elegant front pleat creates a 3D illusion of length and ease, while the back hem stays grounded at your chosen heel height.

So go ahead. Embrace The Dart Side. Your wardrobe will thank you.

SKILLS

• Topstitching
• Flat Felled Seams
• French Seams
• Fly Front Zipper
• How To Make Continuous Bias Tape
• Bias Binding
• Sewing Darts & Pleats
• Sewing With Denim Fabric
• Traditional Jeans Construction

PATTERN DETAILS

• Purchase includes a digital pattern file with sizes 0-18 B-Block size range and 14-32 D-Block size range
• Skill level: Intermediate
• PDF pattern includes illustrated instruction document, A0 copy shop files, print at home files prepared for A4 & letter size paper, and projector files.
• Virtual Sewing Workshop available here

MATERIALS NEEDED

• Self fabric (your main fabric)
• Lining fabric (for pocket bags and bias binding)
• Lightweight to midweight fusible interfacing
• Matching all-purpose thread to your fabric
• Topstitching thread
  
• 1x Closed-end Metal Zipper (see length requirements per size below)
• 1x 27L (11/16” or 17mm) Metal Tack Button (or regular button of your choice)
• 6x Metal Rivets (optional)

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

The Dart Side Jeans are designed for non-stretch woven denim fabrications, although you can use a variety of bottom weight fabrics! Denim fabric is made using a twill weave which provides strength and flexibility. Due to the easeful vibe of the design, using a softer, more worn-in denim will showcase the puddle effect of the hem and lend itself well to the overall aesthetic of the silhouette. If you prefer a more structured appearance, choose a more rigid denim and embrace the architectural effect that fabric choice will create throughout. Also, the more you wear rigid or raw denim, the more it will relax and develop a patina that reflects your body. Midweight to heavyweight denim is most suitable for The Dart Side Jeans, staying in the 9oz (305gsm) to 13.5oz (458gsm) range. You may also use a stretch denim with a very low amount of elastane, such as 1-2% if you would like that added comfort. Other suggestions for bottom weight fabrics that could work would be corduroy, canvas or twill.

Lightweight woven fabrics are recommended for the pocket lining. Choose a fabric that you like the touch of against your skin! A more tightly woven fabric, like a cotton broadcloth or poplin, is perfect as a pocket lining. Keep in mind the lining fabric is also used for the interior bias binding - a pop of color or print may just brighten your day!

FIT RECOMMENDATIONS

The Dart Side Jeans are a classic 90’s, baggy style pattern with modern details and a traditional 5-pocket design. While the style is meant to give a nonchalant, I-just-rolled-out-of-bed-and-grabbed-jeans vibe, you still deserve to have them fit beautifully. And the good news is, that is easy thanks to all the integrated methods of shaping included at the waist and backside of this design. The contoured waistband is intended to sit below your natural waist, wrapping around the very top of your hip bones. Hitting about 1” (2.5cm) below your natural waist, the waistband is shaped with four curved pieces for a secure, body skimming fit that doesn’t dig in. The top edge of the waistband measurements are included in the finished garment measurements charts (see size guide). The bottom edge of the waistband is 2.5” (6.4cm) longer in measurement compared to the top edge. So if you make a toile without the waistband piece, the top edge of the legs (the waistline) will be 2.5” (6.4cm) bigger than the final top edge of the finished waistband.

The two piece back yoke provides additional shaping, so the jeans can perfectly lay against your lower back. The back dart detail allows for more shaping on the side seam of the lower hip. The back dart is intended to hit at the low hip area on the body. On the B-Block it is drafted 8 1/4” (21cm) down from the top of the waistband. On the D-Block it is drafted 9 5/8” (24.4cm) down from the top of the waistband. You may wish to move the placement up or down according to your personal height and proportions, but remember this will affect where the back pocket placement ends up because the dart continues across the back pockets. If you bring it up too high, you may risk the back pocket hitting or overlapping the back yoke seam.

The leg is straight and loose all the way down. In View A, the magic happens at the hem: a delicately engineered front pleat creates a soft drape effect around the front of your foot, while the back leg hem stays clean and tidy at your desired length. Make sure to choose the inseam option closest to your desired finished inseam length! Due to the unique pleated hem, you will want to get your inseam as close as possible to your desired length prior to finishing sewing up your garment. You will have a tiny bit of wiggle room once finished, but it will affect where the pleat hits in the final jeans. The pleat is drafted to land 4” (10.2cm) above the hem. This placement allows the folds of the pleat to fall open a bit across the foot and not hit the ground on either side of the leg.

View B is intended to fall just above the knee for that not too short, not too long jean short we’ve all been looking for: aka JORTS. The pattern only comes with one inseam option for View B, so adjust accordingly for your height!

If you are between sizes, size down if you use 100% cotton denim.

SIZE GUIDE

Choose your size based on your high hip measurement. The high hip area is the most fitted part of the garment. If you fall across multiple sizes, you may find it beneficial to grade between sizes for the waist, high hip, and low hip area. If you would like to skip grading and jump into a single size, you can size down as long as you plan to use 100% cotton denim. Traditional 100% cotton denims will loosen as you wear & love your jeans because cotton doesn’t have a lot of natural recovery. Cotton can stretch, but can’t really be pulled back into shape.

Compare your personal measurements to the finished garment measurements to determine your desired amount of ease. The intended fit is relaxed, which translates to: a decent amount of ease.

Size down if you prefer a more fitted style of jeans.

TECHNICAL SKETCH